I, Wanderer

I asked Melbourne clothing designer James Cameron if I could interview him for I, Wanderer. He was gracious enough to reply fairly quick, saying yes he would — only after Sydney Fashion Week was over! As it turned out, James was putting in some serious hours finalizing all the details for his latest collection and preparing for the big event scheduled in Sydney on Friday, May 2, 2008.

Although James Cameron is a relatively new label in the Melbourne fashion scene, he’s obtained a reputation for designing particular details. It’s the refined and restrained looks, with unique proportions and scale, that epitomize his collections. During a visit to his studio/shop, located at 18 Oliver Lane, I discovered more about his passion for clothing design and all things modern. I also learned how James takes a look back in time for inspiration and factors a ’slightly familiar’ quality into his timeless design sense.

From the Spring Summer 2008 / 2009 collection.

So the dust just settled from the Sydney Fashion Week show and James got back to me for the interview. Thanks James!

Enjoy.

What’s your typical day at work like?

Depending on the time of year, we’ve just had Fashion Week in Sydney and in the lead up we have been working ridiculous hours. But generally we sit around our large central table and think about what’s on the cards. We refine designs. patterns, cut make and sell all within the same space. We’re sticklers for detail and as simple as our shirts or trousers may look we’re constantly refining and honing our pieces. A lot of coffee, not much eating.

Describe your workspace.

When we started here I really wanted the space to blur the line between studio and store. I wanted to welcome and make comfortable those who came here into a personal space, therefore (theoretically) breaking down any walls or pretension between the designer and his work. It’s a great idea but flawed in many ways. I still love the idea but there are times I wish we could close it off. But it’s part of our history now and I think no matter where we go I would like to always use an element of the idea.

The space itself is very simple. We are just below street level so you enter by going down a small set of stairs and we have small window pane frontage. The design of the space is meant to reference the modernists and post modernists I love.

Any rituals you have to perform before starting to work?

Coffee.

What are you passionate about?

To those outside of design I would sometimes sound like a broken record, whining all the time about bad design, poorly executed work etc, but there are so many great things out there being done by great people I don’t understand why we celebrate laziness and mediocrity. For new things I love what Established & Sons are doing from the U.K. I love food and the way it truly brings people together. It’s one of the most honest things you can do, cook for someone and find out. I love it.

Where do you find inspiration?

Always a difficult question. As a designer I guess you don’t stop finding inspiration everywhere you go. But I love how car design is changing as we have to solve fuel, environmental and congestion problems while still remaining true to to the ideas of freedom, creativity and our desire for speed and style. I read a lot, I love film particularly Jean Pierre Melville, the French Noir style. I love that stuff. I am particularly inspired by the near future, I love the aesthetic problems it poses on design. What will we be doing in 5-20 years time, how much will we change as we accelerate (technologically speaking) if at all? I love the idea of existing in “no-time” at all, that there are familiar notions or gestures but actually are new, for example, in our next season we are working on knitwear patterns that at first look like a traditional cable or fair isle knit but upon closer inspection their patterns are thoroughly modern, they haven’t been seen before and by doing so we’ve created a piece of no historical significance or pretense, except for ourselves. It is subtle but it’s not retro and in turn moves us forward

How would you describe your style? How has this style developed over time?

The style is as above, we want people to double-take and inspect. What looks like black upon closer inspection is super dark aubergine or brown. We want men to be men, not in costume, feel handsome and confident but unlike everyone else. Bring a little of themselves, a little of me, a little of something else. We’re the sum of many parts and this should be reflected in a strong, confident way. Over time the style or more importantly the philosophy has been cleaned up and become clearer. It has been important to us that we establish a design language that is clear and coherent. I still want people to have a sense of discovery and unexpectedness and so we still develop this over time, but at least now our clients know where we are coming from. We’re romantics and we love telling a story whether it be our own or somebody elses.

Which artists, designers or creative people are you inspired by?

In fashion and in life we so often fall into cluster groups, ie you like listening to so and so, you wear this label and drive this car, but you aspire to this etc etc. This is great and it gives us a sense of belonging but there are times that I like to break this model and include something from left of centre and bring it to the group with a new sensibility. That’s a long way of saying that the designers I like are for their philosophies and process, I don’t always like their results but I love their thinking. Nicholas Ghesquiere and Raf Simons are genius, as is Martin Margiela. Dries Van Noten is incredible with colour and his steadfastness, unchanged after so many years. I am obsessed with Donald Judd and from art to furniture, Jean Prouve and the great American and European Modernists.

What’s your Spring Summer 2008/2009 line like? What’s new? And your inspirations?

It has been dubbed “The Getaway”. From this we took our hero and his story from leaving work Friday to his return Monday. The colours are bold and confident but they all work harmoniously and I can’t wait to have them in for Summer. There’s a sense of the late sixties but as previously explained when seen first hand they take on something else and should reference no time but exist on their own. Sounds serious, but this is our starting point. New pieces and silhouettes are deep double pleat trousers. The pleats are stitched flat down the thigh and then let loose giving fullness and then to a subtle taper at the ankle. It’s great new silhouette. Also, great shorter bomber jackets in silk and short finishing trousers, so formality is retained during Summer. They are all great looks that push the label forward but don’t alienate anyone. I’m really looking forward to next season as we further solidify what the label is about.

What makes a good collection?

Clarity, Cohesiveness and fun.

You opened your Flinders Lane shop in 2007 – how’s that going?

If I could make it purely a shop then I’d have something. It’s going well, but as I said earlier, theoretically the idea of a store/studio is great on paper just not so much in practice. I would love to just let go and not have to worry about the consequences of leaving the shop messy, but for now we will keep the store as it is. It works well and conversation is second nature when standing around the pattern table and I wouldn’t want to lose that.

Will James Cameron create a line for women? – seems like the kind of question you’ve heard 1,000 times before or maybe you just can’t be bothered answering since your hands are full with the mens collection…

Not at all. I think designers like Veronique Branquinho have done this perfectly (albeit vice-versa). She masterfully translated her structured womenswear sensibility into menswear without making it feminine but still retaining her core values. Dries is another. I would love to and my training is womenswear. I will have to wait and see, but it is definitely on the cards.

You told me a story about how you had seen a sweater worn by JFK and that you were inspired by it. Could you relate that story to me again?

Well I guess this is an example of story-telling in the store, but I truly believe it adds something to the garment and the experience. I wanted some truly iconic cuts of the sixties and I stumbled across this black and white photo of JFK, sleeves pulled up on this small sailing boat I imagine somewhere in Massachusetts. It had more than just the former presidents preppy style and actually gave me a sense of adventure and optimism. From that we (re)created the sweater. A small crew neck with three stripes on a saddle shoulder pattern. But it needed to prompt questioning so I did some further research and this wasn’t as fortuitous as the finding the photo. Eventually I found some information pertaining to the Kennedy’s yachts. They had several of course. But one in particular was small boat they had while growing up and was called the “Victura”. In turn we named our sweater the Victura, which is a hell of a lot better than The Jack or JFK. I read recently that one of the Kennedy’s boats was sold at auction and another was destroyed by fire.

MELBOURNE SPECIFIC

Favorite Coffee Shop?

Jungle Juice, The European and Mini (my local).

Favorite Restaurant?

I used to be a real foodie but since the store opened I have had to curb my love a little. Il Solito Posto is a great bustling, but somehow still romantic Italian restaurant mid-city. The European for breakfast and Madame SouSou too. Julio’s (literally down by the schoolyard!) in North Fitzroy is very humble and cool. Anything by Andrew McConnell or Maurizio Terzini, who has just opened at the casino which is a big no-no, but he’s managed to pull it off and the food is phenomenal (Giuseppe Arnaldo & Sons). Gils Diner is the one I’m dying to try. So many in Melbourne, we’re really fortunate.

What’s your typical Saturday morning like? (other favorites, routines, etc.)

Generally the search for a great cup of coffee on a Saturday, near the shop continues. I get that, then I’m happy. I have to wait til Sunday to have a sleep in and think about other loves besides design.

The shop at 18 Oliver Lane.

James Cameron website here.

James Cameron Boutique
Level 1 / 18 Oliver Lane
Melbourne Victoria 3000
Australia
PH + 61 3 9662 2506